Engine Numbers and ID(January 02 2003)
hello to all: ijust purchased a R.E. Interceptor Engine #
AGZ3174 front of crankcase also 1A391 on side of case. 4759 is
cast in steering head. ign-dist, concentric carbs obviously wrong,
cast aluminium top triple tree with speedo & tach mount.plain tank
no ribs or mounting holes for badges. can any one help to date this
bike thanks
Arthur
Arthur: I can help you narrow it down. My Series 1A is engine number
1A 512 and crankcase / gearbox number AGZ 3258. I have a dating certificate
from the REOC machine dating officer. My bike was despatched from the
factory 2 February 1968. Hope this helps. By the way, the 4759 cast
in the steering head seems common to all frames.
Rod
Rod,
My Inter is in storage at the other side of town, but if my memory
serves correctly, its engine number is 1A 513, which if true makes this
an interesting coincidence.
My vehicle registration papers were done with the bike's "AGZ
3284" gearbox
number, which does not help in confirming the above, aside from cross
checking your bike and mine were built about the same time.
I'll check the engine number next time I'm at the storage garage.
.. gREgg
Arthur,
Judging from your engine number, I'm 99.9 % certain your bike is a
1967 model year. The 389 & 689/225 monoblocs are listed for the
early Series 1A Inter, but I've never seen them fitted. Even the photos
I have of what is most certainly a factory prototype has the 930 series
concentric carbs fitted.
The plain tank is correct, it should be fully chromed, with a painted
strip on the top.
Hope this helps,
.. gREgg
Air filter, K&N and pancake(January 8 2003)
Anders, I have a 1967 Mk1a. Carbs, Amal 930 stamped 88 and 89. I've
no idea what the 88/89 and 32/33 means.
I just checked with two cardboard templates of the 3 inch x 3 inch
(76mm = 3 inches) "Round Straight" RC-0890 filters. There
is enough room for an index finger between them. My breather hose will
need to be moved slightly so it will not lay against the filters. These
will fit, but will they work?
K&N do NOT make filters with a 46mm flange ID in the "Oval"
or "Dual Flange Oval". These come in 44mm, I do not think
that will fit on the 930 Amals. I came into possession of a Nort*n Commando
with a dual flange filter on it. I might be able to find it and see
if it is a 44mm. It sure was hard to get on and off. Anyone know if
the 44mm is the better fit on the 45.5mm threaded stub on the amals?
I have some old K&N's with a larger ID flange. These are loose
in the threaded stub, but the velocity stack fits more snug in these
filters. I guess I could cut off the velocity stacks and use them as
spacers and fit these. Putting a Vernier on them gives me varying measurements
but I think these are RC-1820, 51mm Flange ID, a 3 x 4 oval and 2 3/4
long.
It is not so straight forward, but it looks like there are several
options of K&N's that will fit. Even if run with no oil, they at
least keep the rocks and small birds out of the intake.
What to do?
-RickL
(photos above from Bob)
Dear Rick
Thanks for saving me some work and time finding a suitible K&N
filter, I am also looking for an air filter replacement.
What Interceptor and carb do you have? Just to make sure that the CR-0890
might work. I will make some verifying measurements at my carb. I would
prefer to find an oval pancake type or what K&N call "Dual
Flange Oval" air filter this would be more more look alike to the
original one.
Best regards
Anders
RE Interceptor mkII, -70
with Amal Concentric 930/32-33
Rick, my RE2, which is still in restoration, came with K&Ns on
it that fit fine. I can check tonight to see if they have a number or
other identification on them. The only reason I was interested in something
different was in order to have a more authentic British period look,
such as the pancake filters so common on many Brit bikes of the era.
If you aren't interested in that, then K&Ns should be fine.
Bob Cram
Dear Rick and Bob
The early original pancake air filter is still available from Burton
Bike Bits in UK. But I amfraid that they no longer stock the filter
element. I do not know he price, but I have asked for it, I'll ge back
to you if you're interested.
They also got the later ugly black glass fiber filter housing AND cartridge.
Best regards
Anders
Lucas High Output 3 Phase Jan 08 2003
gREgg has contributed a great description of the Lucas High Output
3 Phase in the Interceptor Knowledge
Base (check it out updated 11/03/03)
GREGG !! Absolutely ELECTRIFYING !!!
Can anyone suggest a good supplier of a Lucas RM24. I am in Chicago.
Pardon my ignorance of things British and Lucas, but what do I need?
Do I just ask for an RM24 Alternator?
-Rick
(can't wait to get rid of that 22 watt head light bulb)
Gregg, looking at your message again I realized that the comparison
seems to be between the 3 phase 180W alternator and the single phase
120W alternator. Naturally, one would expect a 180W to outperform an
120W. I've been told that Lucas also made a 180W single phase alternator.
You have to wonder what a comparison of the two 180W alternators would
show.
My Triumph needs a new rotor, so I've been thinking of upgrading to
the 180W so I can run an electric vest and extend the riding season
here in the cold Canadian prairies. What this tells me is that the 180W
will give me enough juice to do that, but I will have to switch the
vest off at lower revs, e.g. idling at lights. That's okay, it would
be mainly for highway use anyway. Naturally, this should work with an
RE too. I know of at least one person who has done this on a Norton
and uses an
electric vest without problem.
Bob Cram
Wanted to buy Interceptor motor and gearbox for restoration
(Jan 09 2003)
Howard from Rockhampton, Queensland, Australia
Well he lives 5 miutes away from "Royal", and just dropped
in, imagine that.
Howard wants to get his hands on an Interceptor Motor and Gearbox.
Hey Howard,
This is not true,
You're not in Rocky, eh?
I work at Ergon.
Someone is having me on!
Royal
Hi
Yes I work at ABN AMRO Morgans Stockbroking. I owned a Constellation
back in the sixties and am now wanting to restore an Interceptor over
a couple of years as a bike to ride.
If you can assistme with any info you can ring me. I would appreciate
any assistance as I have contacted a guy in Victoria and another in
Western Aust. who are going to send me any info they may get about parts
or a whole bike.
Howard Smith
Authorised Representative
ABN AMRO Morgans Limited
Rockhampton
Phone:and Fax:(through Hello feedback page)
Ok Howard,
I'll catch up with you next week.
Flying down to Brisbane this arvo
Cheers
Royal
Actual Pulsation dampener modification done on a Series II
(Paulus)(Jan 09 2003)
Paulus,
It appears that you have done the pulsation dampener modification on
a Series II engine. Could you describe any improvement that this modification
made in either oil pressure or cooling.
Thanks,
Madmax
Hi Madmax
,
yes, I did read this.. but I am afraid I have not too much hard information,
as I have no oil pressure gauge on my oil system; only a idiot light
that shows when the pressure comes below 0.7 bar.. that should be about
10 psi.
When the oil is hot the light appears when idling.. up till about 1500
rpm. But the important thing is.. does it come when running 4000 to
5000 rpm. as that would be a sure sign of cavitation. This happened
to me only once.. the reason being that my oil level was far too low.
Typical cavition.. it disappeared when going down to 2500 rpm..
That brings me to the subject of oil consumpion and oil leaking into
the cylinder head.. As I made the mistake of putting 23 Lbs on the cylinder
head bolts I pulled out one of the studs. So I had to lift the heads
and that was not a pretty sight in there. very oily, and that after
only 1000 miles with new piston rings and valve guides. I suppose it
has to do with the lack of a breather valve on the crankcase. On the
captain Norton site I read about this problem with Commando's and got
the advise to use a valve from Volkswagen or Motormite. I'll try this
out as soon as the salt is from the roads here and let you know. If
it works as it should the underpressure should keep the engine free
from sweating. (wasnt the nickname for the Enfields 'The giant with
the oily feet' )
And then.. I tested the pressure release valves. First the main valve..
In the original set up with only one shim of 1.5 mm thickness the pressure
needed was 65 psi. That is exactly what the book says. .. I wanted it
down to about 45 to 50 psi to open.. and had to use shims to a total
of 5 mm. to accomplish that.
Then the second valve. I found out the pressure needed was about 15psi.
again exactly as the book says. But I wanted it to open later.. ( I
think this thing comes from a crusader.. problably Enfield had lots
of them.. but they are to weak for an Interceptor..) I opened it to
try another spring, but that became a mess. Ordered a new valve from
Hitchkock and that was excellent.. 25 psi.
About lifting the head.. after a rebore I had a problem to find oversize
cross rings.. changed to a regular gasket (asbestos with a flame ring)
once made by Avelino's.. Hitchkock sells these and they are excellent
in my experience. But you have to shave a mm. from the cylinders to
keep the compression ok..
Then I installed a Boyer ignition. The Micro type with a straight 'curve'.
I found out that I had to set the timing rather early to prevent to
motor from stalling when you have to brake suddenly.. (Wonder if it
is worth to change to the Boyer digital.. has anybody experience with
those?) Or can it be a question of using plugs that are too hard..?
In my experience plugs with an 'extended nose' perform a lot better
than the original Champion L3 or L4
Then I have a lot of Interceptor articles.. I can scan them if you
think its worth putting them on the site.. also a series of 6 articles
from Motorcycle mechanics about the Albion gearbox and its secrets..
Keep the good work going!
regards,
Paulus Boortman
Hi Paulus
Sounds great, thanks for the feedback.
Yes what ever info you have I'd be happy to prepare it so it can be
shared. "the Albion gearbox and its secrets" and its secrets
sounds intriguing.
To save you some work, just check the brochure
section on the web site, so your article isn't there already.
Good luck with getting it going.
Royal
10 January 2003
Don't Block the Relief Valve on SII Engine
Well gang, in spite of all good sense, I blocked off the relief valve
in my '69 Series II and I can now say this is not a good idea. During
testing in my garage, I determined that the relief valve opens at about
20 psi and that anytime the oil pressure is above 20 psi there is a
steady flow from the relief vavle back to the tank.
This flow comes through the 0.025" bypass hole in the main relief
plunger and possibly from leakage around the plunger. In any case, my
theory was that if this flow from the relief valve back to the tank
could be stopped, then the oil pressure would be higher. This turned
out to be true but it only improved the pressure about 5 to 10 psi.
Here's what happened.
After blocking the relief valve by soldering up the hole, I started
the engine but then had to quickly shut it off when the pressure approached
75 psi. I had to start and stop about 5 times before the pressure with
the engine idling was no more than 60 psi.
Then I had to let it idle for about 10 minutes before reving the engine
would not produce more than 60 psi. Once the engine was hot, I rode
about 5 miles at 70 mph and I observed that the oil pressure was about
15 psi. Usually the pressure would fall to less than 10 psi during this
test. I also noticed that the pressure went up to 25 psi as I slowed
down to 50 mph and the pressure at idle was about 20 psi.
I think this test indicates that a relief valve with a higher pressure
spring (like 30 psi?)would be a good idea but an oil pump with a higher
flow is still the better way to go.
That's all for now. My next test will be installing the Peter-style
pulsation dampener and I'll let y'all know how that works out.
Madmax
Bob from Nainamo, BC Canada remembers his -69 (12/01/03)
Message: Nice to see your Web Site dedicated to the RE. I was lucky
enough to roll "Stage II Interceptor" off the showroom floor
in 1969. Two years later I got maried and sold it and have sorely missed
it ever since, I now ride a Yamaha XV920RH, which is about as close
to that old Enfield as I can get.
Enfield rally in Redditch this year (Mon 13 January
2003)
I may be the last person on earth to have heard about this, but I read
in Classic Bike that there is going to be a big Enfield rally in Redditch
this year, to be held on July 12. Sounds like something to do this summer
for sure! .. gREgg
gREgg, et al, I'd love to attend, but I'll still be in OZ then. Hopefully,
it's not presumptuous to suggest that people active in this group, going
to Redditch, take an initiative to let Interceptor owners know about
this totally non profit, dedicated group and about our web site. Maybe
even have a chat to the organisers to get the web address www.ozemate.com/interceptor
included in any relevant published material (e.g. program).
REgards
Royal
.....13/01/03
I am planning to visit the Enfield rally in Redditch UK. With or w/o
the Interceptor. Hope to meet some of you then... It will be a Show
July 11-12-13. A plaquette will be placed at the old factory premise
on the 12th.
For more information check http://www.royalenfield.org.uk/
I planning to make a trip down to Bradford on Avon - Upper Westwood
trying to find what is left of the factory caves. Have anyone of you
visit the Interceptor factory caves? It would be great to get some tips
how to find the caves.
I have contacted the Swedish members of RE Owners Club here in Sweden,
perhaps we will be a gang of 10 bikes.
Best regards
Anders
New alloy barrels on stock again from Hitchcock's 13
Jan 2003
For you who does not suscribe to HITCHCOCK?S MOTORCYCLE NEWSLETTER,
some great news I wish to spread: (Anders)
ALLOY BARRELS (INTERCEPTOR)
We now have the alloy barrels in stock for the 736cc Interceptors. These
are a one piece alloy barrel (both cylinders cast as one barrel).
They are a great improvement over the originals as they hold the crankcases
more rigidly, helping to prevent the chaffing of the crankcase mouth
which was a common problem with the originals.
Part Number: 46129A, Price: 395.00 Pounds (Plus VAT
if applicable).
These barrels likely look very nice, but I worry if they fit the cases
properly, and how well they will work in practice.
The cylinder spigots are a very close fit into the crankcases, which
means that for the engine to assemble correctly, the new one piece barrels
must be machined to have a center-to-center distance that is essentially
spot-on your crankcases. Since this was not an issue with the original
separate barrels, I wonder how tightly the factory controlled the center-to-center
dimension on the crankcases in the first place?
The other issue is the lack of air flow between the cylinders with
these new barrels.
I wonder how sensible a mod this is: after all, it's not that the original
barrels are very heavy ...
.. gREgg
Your points about that unit-barrel are surely true.
As the subject has been raised, I can add some information on how I
have gone about solving the problem of the weak crankcase-top. The bottom
of both cylinders ( not the skirt ) have been turned down 12 mm - which
removes the portion up to the bottom fin. A 12 mm thick common cast-aluminium
plate - with an extra "look-alike" fin - front and back -
is then"glued" on to the crankcase-top. The top of the common
plate has cnc-machined O-ring grooves so that sealing against the cylinders
is taken care of by two O-rings. This solution also eliminates the need
of re-tightening top-bolts, since there is no longer any setting of
gasket-material.
The plate is designed to match my present centre-distance ( 3 times
machining of crancase-halves) but that is of course just a single parameter
to be changed in the cnc-programme. If anyone is interested in this
solution - let me know, and we might be able to work something out with
the guy who did the cnc machining for me.
Ole
Electric Oil Pump! an Interceptor Pacemaker
Re. Copyright, where possible I'll try contacting authors etc.
Just send it to me when you get a chance,
Re, "Pacemaker" (below)
sounds Great, Go for it, and keep us posted.
REgards
Royal
Hi Royal
I'll scan some articles.. You have no worries about copyrights.. or
shall I keep to the older stuff..?
In the meantime something else..
I read about this idea to put an additional oil pump on the tacho
drive to bring cool oil to the head. I have been playing with the
same idea, but with a small electrical ump. I orderded this pump from
a medical supply firm. It is meant to bring life saving fluids in
the body of sick persons.... and that should fit its use on a Interceptor
for hot days I think.. It pumps with low pressure about 5 ltrs an
hour and uses 7 watt / 12 volt. (You can go for smaller versions of
this pump .. using only 3 watt.) They assured me it can handle hot
fluids like engine oil. The system is extremely simple.. a rotating
arm 'massages' an flexible (silicon) pipe and pushes the oil forward.
It it self priming and has no problem with running dry.
The good thing with an electrical pump is that you can put it in every
place and in every position you like, under the saddle for example.
And with a switch you can put it on only when you need it.
I am installing the thing on my interceptor for a test.. For a start
I intend taking the oil from the sump by a pipe through the fill-up
opening. From there through the pump to the heads. (I dont know if
this is original, but in on my Interceptor there is a nipple in the
middle of the heads.. I suppose it was meant for a breather pipe..)
For whoever is interested.. for information about this pump you can
look at
http://www.asf-thomas.de/liquid
and look under 'schlauchpumpen'.
Well its all in german, but they sure must have an english version
too..
kind regards
Paulus
Paulus,
This idea looks innovative as well. I've worked with these pumps
a fair amount and are pretty effective for being so simple. A word
of caution though; the tubing will mechanically breakdown after a
period of time from the rotating rollers, and its not uncommon for
petroleum products to chemically breakdown flexible tubing if it isn't
materially compatible. Lets us know the results!! thanks.
Dave from the great state of Nebraska.
The whole Interceptor Web on CD, before archives
Hi Guys
The web site www.ozemate.com/interceptor has recently been updated
as
some of you would have noticed. You can appreciate that it's starting
to take up a lot of room and I'll have to start shaving back and archive
and slim line the site within 6 months.
It will be a hard task to cut some stuff out, as all of it has its
value.
Seing this will come one day, I thought I'd check if there are any
of
you guys who want a copy of the original before the major "Clean
up"?
The Web site has been written to be portable, so that it can be shifted
easily, but there is some work involved to easily have it run off
a CD. One benefit is speed. Running off a CD, one can expect lightning
speed
accessing all material, plus you need no phone line access.
It will also serve as a "stake in the ground" for material
so far. I was going to include other bits as well, like e-mails and
pictures from the Discussion group, which will also be slimmed a bit.
I'll either not bother preparing a simple click to use, or I'll have
a list of people interested to take the trouble.
Cost wise, it'll be at cost, just production cost and postage. If
you're interested, please use the feedback formon
the web site, and fill in ALL fields where possible.
Also for the clean up, next version, feel free to constructively
criticise, or come with some ideas.
REgards
Royal
Hot Curry for a "THINDERBIRD Mobike" - Birdie DumDum
20/01/03 Siddharth Sh--
Email: Siddharths007@rediff
Message: Dear Sir,
My telecon to you. I am using your THINDERBIRD Mobike, newly bought
from Meerut Dealer. Here, I would like to attract your devotion on
my grievance i.e. My mobike has damaged due to cracking of time-chain,
valve, and piston in unbelievable 1500 K.M ride only. I am a professional,
Busy with my outdoor-schedules and generally ride once in a week and
also having experience of almost 10 years for using bike. Apart from
this, it is the problem with some of my friends who also bought same
bike with me.
So, This is to advice you to remove this technical problem and also
I'll be glad if you respond me with your developments on my given
address.
found: It's really shows your "Customer orientation"approah.
Model1: Thinderbird, Mod-2002
ModYear1: 2002
"Birdie Dum Dum"
Like Peter Sellers would have said - In "Oh-What a party!"