If the piston for the Mk II was a different P/N than Mk I ...(Apr
01 2003)
Hi Amigos was wondering if anyone knew off hand if the piston for the
Series11 was a different P/N or in fact a different piston than the
Series1, as these bikes have the same top end (I thought)wouldn't they
take the same piston?
thanks
Bob
Two years ago I bought a pair of NOS Bullet pistons from Hitchcocks
for my Series II. I needed 0.020" over stock bore and the Bullet
pistons were something like 0.040" or 0.060" over stock. The
Bullet pistions were also 3/8" too long but I easily trimmed the
skirts with a hacksaw and they have been working fine ever since. I
would bet
the Series I pistons would fit but I have no direct knowledge. I am
sure someone at Hitchcocks could tell you for certain.
Good Luck,
Madmax
Thanks Max maybe someone just knows what the Enfield P/N for a 1A piston
is...I have the 1/B P/N.. Thanks Bob
Bob,
The P/N for std. size piston for a a Mk1A is 46160 for engines up to
#17076 and 46160/A for engines 17077 and up. If you have to go oversize
then, according to Hitchcocks, you order the pistons from a Constellation.
A .060 oversize piston on a Constellation is the same size as a .020
oversize on a Mk1A. That's the route I had to take.
Rick
Royal,
For anyone's information: 350 Bullets, Meteor Minors, Constellations
are all (nominal) 70mm. All Interceptors are (nominal) 71mm, actually
40 thou larger. All these pistons (in various oversizes) can be physically
fitted into each other engine, but vary considerably in weight (affecting
balance and the vibes) and compression ratio.
Back in '68 when men were men and women were more careful, I raced a
Mk. 1 Interceptor fitted with Meteor Minor pistons (+ 0.040) which gave
a 9.5 : 1 compression ratio. It went well (until a piston crown came
off at about 6,500 rpm midway through my second season) in its class,
but race-tuned Commandos and Tridents were being allowed in the so-called
Production class and I couldn't keep up with those!
If you have a good set of original pistons why not re-sleeve to suit?
Cost is about the same and performance and balance remain the same.
Dave
thanks for getting back Rick So going by that it could be either piston
installed unless they were the originals, wondering if there's a way
the pistons are marked to
tell which they are. I ran the 46160/A number below on the parts
search on the Hitch. website, came up an unknown #...its a mystery
Bob
I went through the same problem. The part numbers came right from my
original parts manuel which made the distinction between engine numbers.
From what I've been able to gather the difference is in the rings, not
the piston. In other words, one type of piston came with thicker rings
and will not sit in the ring groove of the other type. However, don't
quote me on that.
That's why I went with what Hitchcocks advised. In fact, they sent
the the oversized Constellation piston set, (which came with rings),
and included an additional set of rings with the instruction to install
the pistons with the additional rings and not the original. Hey, they've
been working on Enfields a lot longer than I have so I will bow to experience.
Rick
David H fed back through our web page:
Royal,
For anyone's information: 350 Bullets, Meteor Minors, Constellations
are all (nominal) 70mm.
All Interceptors are (nominal) 71mm, actually 40 thou larger. All these
pistons (in various oversizes) can be physically fitted into each other
engine, but vary considerably in weight (affecting balance and the vibes)
and compression ratio.
Back in '68 when men were men and women were more careful, I raced
a Mk. 1 Interceptor fitted with Meteor Minor pistons (+ 0.040) which
gave a 9.5 : 1 compression ratio. It went well (until a piston crown
came off at about 6,500 rpm midway through my second season) in its
class, but race-tuned Commandos and Tridents were being allowed in the
so-called Production class and I couldn't keep up with those!
If you have a good set of original pistons why not re-sleeve to suit?
Cost is about the same and performance and balance remain the same.
Dave
All that red black and chrome (02 April 2003)
Great site. I miss my 1969 intercepter greatly. Me and army buddy went
from germany to london in late 1968 to buy a bsa or triumph. Fell in
love with the look of that intercepter at first sight. Paid $960 each
and shipped both to santa rosa calif. We kept them for several years.
I traded mine for a vw camper in 1972. Wish I could turn back the clock.
All that red black and chrome. I can still see it feel it and hear it.
A more beautiful motorcycle has never been made.
If you have one your blessed.
Feedback from Michael
Visit to Bradford on Avon to see inside the caves(April 03 2003)
Royal,
To let everyone know; I have arranged a visit to enter the Bradford-on-Avon
caves on Monday, July 14th (following the Redditch Heritage weekend).
Anyone who wishes to come please let me know. This is a one-off opportunity
to see where the Interceptors were built!
I shall be on the REOC stand at Stafford April 26/27th and would be
delighted to see any overseas members there. The Stand is on the balcony,
near the Restaurant.
Cheers for now,
Dave
Iraq Misunderstanding !(April 16 2003)
Mark 2 US style tank wanted. Anything considered. Thanks
Big Lad Uk
E-mail of non Royal Enfield Interceptor nature will change the sender
into having future e-mails scrutinised before postings. This is a large
group of people, not inclined to appreciate idle jokes or other group
mail.
"Royal" - Moderator
Appologies to member who posted this mail(see my previous).
"Mark 2 US style tank"
sure looked like relating to topics like the war TV news going in the
background here, so it was first totally misunderstood. The squiggly
indicating Javascript attachement (Yahoo ad material) also added to
the confusion.
Nevertheless, previous statement stands.
When advertising items wanted or items for sale, please use more than
one sentence. Full name in membership also adds to reciprocal responses.
Regards
"Royal"
Bagdad Bob Says (mouse over)
Regards
hello all still here i am very slow at writing and not too good with
computers . i will send some photos when ive worked out how to send
and i havent worked out how to find orlans photo he has posted some,
advice would be good! bike is running well lots of fun riding it
Biglad my friend has got a mk2 us tank has had a bad repair on one
side probably only suitable for painting ring for futher details if
interested. Hope to meet some of you at redditch show. Also need outer
primary case cover for inter mk1 special i will be building if any one
knows of one would be good send some more messages everyone nice to
know there are some other sad characters like me out there!!
thanks
ade
Converting from positive to negative ground?(April
225 2003)
Does anyone know the proceedure to follow when converting from
positive to negative ground?
Cheer
Rick F
Here I'm assuming that we're talking about a Series 1 or II Interceptor.
Basically, you have to reverse the polarity of every component that
has a
polarity. The simplest way is to replace them with their negative-ground
(earth) counterparts. These would be: the rectifier, and the Zener diode.
The, you have to reverse the wires going to the blue can capacitor,
and to
the battery.
It is possible to reverse teh connections to the Zener and the rectifier,
but it is a little trickier if you are not perfectly clear on what you
are
doing: the trick is that the body of the component has to be isolated
from
the frame, and a connection added to it in order to reverse the connections
to it. In the case of the Zener, it means having to insulate it from
its
heatsink ... there are standard kits available for this in the electronics
world, but its a matter of tracking them down if you don't have industry
contact.
.. gREgg
This might just be the yr to start it up again (25 Apr 2003)
after telling fokes for 30 yrs that you have a motorcycle and they
ask what kind?? You tell them Royal Enfield.. well you know how the
rest goes... its nice to talk to others that speak ENFIELD....
WAUSA, WISCONSIN, US
Hello Royal The temperature finally got above freezing here in the
great north and i am looking at the Enfield and thinking that this might
just be the yr to start it up again.
It has been stored in my rec. room for the lenght of my marrage 25 yrs.
I figure that it ran when i drained the gas out so just tickel the carbs
and keep kickin. I never had a battery do you think in my old age a
battery would save me a hernia ?.
Also i have tried baxter cycles a refurb. Place in ohio, USA about getting
a set of the metal royal enfield tank emblems they want $120.00 u.s.
Is that too much ?
I will look for a response and let you know just how far down the road
i had to push it to get it to fire.
Dick D
Is that gREgg's Old Bike?? (25 Apr 2003)
Hi Don and Royal,
I got into the interceptor site and finally found Don's bike. Well,
it is not my old bike, since it is a Series 1, and
mine was a Series II. I can't tell for sure because of the angle of
the shot, but it looks like it has a Madras Enfield front wheel, by
the look of the hub.
I'd like to see a closer shot of the head, to see how the mod was done,
in fact, it would be nice to know who did the mod, in case I know them
... but to date, the mod I did to my Series II in 1972 is the only one
I'd even heard of.
The tank looks like a Series 1A / Series II tan, but it is sitting
too high on the frame. It is also too short. So, it may well be an aftermarket
tank. The mufflers look like old Webco megaphones, and you should find
that genuine Interceptor mufflers will make the engine run much, much
better.
I notice the speedo & tach and tach drive are missing. It is a
bit of a pain since the tach was specific to the Interceptor: the tach
reads from right to left, which is exactly opposite to almost everything
else you'll find. There are ways around it if you're interested at some
point.
It's nice to see you still have the chain guard, though it should be
chrome on the later models. There is a lot of sheet metal bits missing
behind the engine, including the battery tray, the transmission cover,
the forward part of the chain guard, and the protective cover that goes
under the seat.
There is a big piece that closes off the frame behind the engine, as
well as holding the coils, and most of the electrical system. You can
also get a fiberglass cover for the battery, which sits transversely
as in the series II.
Looks like someone has hacked off the frame loops that hold the passenger
pegs, as well as supporting the muffler brackets. For reasons I have
never figured out, that's a very common thing people do (these folks
must own shares in hacksaw blade companies, I guess).
The center stay of your front fender looks like it has been eliminated,
or somehow replaced. A more detailed shot would help, but if the stay
is missing, please be sure to put one back on: it is vital.
The rear fender subframe looks correct, but the rear fender is not
right, and the entire taillight and license plate bracket/unit is from
a Triumph or a BSA of a slightly later period.
If you send me the number from the left side of the engine, just below
the cylinder base, I can likely date it for you. It will be a number
starting with something like, 'YA', 'YB' or '1A' depending on the actual
model. From teh details of the frame, I'd say it is a series 1A, which
should have an engine number starting with '1A'.
Hope these comments help, and I look forward to hearing from you again.
.. gREgg
Photo of a happy Interceptor owner, celebrating the completion of a
few
thousand miles of service from his 1968 Series 1A.
And another one ... this fellow looks entirely too happy !
Now, surely this is what God intended motorcycle engines to look like!
.. gREgg
Hi gREgg
That's cool
Great looking bike.
Thanks for the piccies. If that's not your Weber bike, then do you have
some weber piccies on yours as well?
** My Weber bike and I parted ways in 1978, just before my son was
born. I made a trade for a 1939 RE model B/CO (350cc), which I felt
was more like what I needed at the time. I had got a new camera at the
time I did the conversion, and so I took a photo at each stage of the
conversion. However, when I reached 40 shots on a 36 exposure roll,
I discovered that I had not threaded the film correctly !! Not one photo
to show of it. In terms of the bike afterward, I have very few photos
of any of the bikes I've had over the past 35 years ... and there have
been more than 100 of them that have come and gone. Somehow, they were
just old bikes, and keeping a photo album just never seemed important.
So the 1A had mufflers horizontal (take it this one is in original
state)
**This bike is almost 100% stock, except for a few things I've altered
to suit myself. They can easily be set back though. I'll deal with some
of that here.
** the bike came standard with either tipped-up or horizontal exhausts.
That was the primary difference between the TT-7 and the GP-7 versions.
Was the battery cover not standard?
** The battery cover to my knowledge appeared on the later Series
II models. For instance, my Series II, which was only 6 months old when
I bought it, had no cover. I have one which I could fit to my Series
1A, but have not convinced myself to do it (can't bring myself to drill
holes in that nice new fiberglass part!).
Front brake on left side?
** Yes, that's correct. Bear in mind that the entire front end is
different on the Series 1A. It is an Enfield fork and wheel. The brake
is a very nice 7" SLS unit, which is better than the 8" Norton
unit that replaced it.
What's the shiny thing on the saddle frame just underneath the saddle
edge straight above the ignition key? (pic 3)
** If I'm reading you correctly, it is the head of the bolt that fastens
the seat to the saddle frame ... nothing too serious ;=).
Now, the oil feeder to the rockers, comes out as a Y from under the
tank, instead of as on the Series II where they come up from the crankshaft
vertical then as T behind the base of the head underneath the carbies
they go east-west bending up on the left and right side of the head
going first to the inlet valve rockers then to the outlet, possibly
meaning the outlet rockers get less pressure? So was this Y under the
tank distribution a modification you did or is this how its done on
the Series I
and can you fit a Series I oil pipe to a Series II?
Comment?
** Two things: first, the Series 1A is different from the Series II.
It has a separate left and right feed to the rockers, though at the
rocker end, it looks the same as a Series II. You may recall that a
while back, I wrote saying that I do not like the stock arrangement
whereby the exhaust rocker is fed after the inlet. I use oil lines from
the earlier twins that have a "Y" connection, which better
divides the flow. It also prevents starving the exhaust rockers during
acceleration ... which was a problem originally discovered with the
Bullet in 1950, and fixed the same way ... with a "Y"
junction.
Finally, your comment about identifying a bike by series and chassis
number. Could you please document your understanding on this and forward
to me for inclusion into the knowledgebase, that would be super.
** Nothing too mysterious here, Royal. Over the years I have accumulated
a list of engine numbers and the corresponding dates. Thus, when I see
an engine number, I can usually infer the date. The early frame numbers
are completely useless for dating purposes.
I'd better run now ...
.. gREgg
Single Carb Interceptors