Royal Enfield Interceptor Owners

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Help to identify an MK 1 (Sun Jul 28, 2002 ) -Jennifer
Getting my Amals to idle!  Good points  -Gridley Bruce /Rick F / gREgg/ Bob C/Bob St/(Thu Jul 25, 2002)
Primary Transmission Troubles (Thu Jul 25, 2002) -Rick F/ Bob C
Oil pressure relief valve and warning light -Paulus - (Tue Jul 23, 2002 )
King Kong-Royal Enfield Interceptor 1965 Cycle World Road   -Billy Dean (Sun Jul 21, 2002)
Clutch Drag and Hitchcock's belt conversion kit.!  -Karin /Rick F- (Sun Jul 21, 2002)
Shrouded Rear Shockies! - Rod / Bob/ Dave/ Rick L/ gREgg-(Wed Jul 17, 2002
Oil for transmission - Bob St/ Bob C/ Roger/ gREgg / Royal (Sun Jul 14, 2002)
How to install the rubberized Swing arm bushes Great- gREgg - (Thu Jul 11, 2002 )
American Indian Interceptor models . Royal/ Bob/ Robert S/Jennifer(Tue Jul 3, 2002)
Good Enough Mufflers or dissatisfaction? -Rick F/ Royal- (Wed Jul 3, 2002 )

Royal Enfield US made as an Indian (30/06/2002) -Jennifer
Need oil cooler lines -Rick Fisher -(27/06/2002)
Neutral Finder Operation -ksmith1939 / Anders (26/06/2002)
Correct Location of Horn -Anders L /Bob/Don L /Royal Robert S - (24/06/2002)
Carbs and Fuel Mixture Excellent Bob!  - Bob Cram - Sat Jun 15, 2002
Nearly there now, Ben's Interceptor - Ben -Wed Jun 12, 2002
Proof of ownership issue, US Custom!- gREgg / Royal Tue Jun 11, 2002
Bullet - Interceptor for sale at eBay - Anders / gREgg - Mon Jun 10, 2002
Stroehle about their alloy Interceptor cylinders. Good Comment! - .. gREgg -Fri Jun 7, 2002
Original Airfilter confusion -Bob /Rick/ Royal- Thu Jun 6, 2002
Problems registering his Interceptor Royal- Mon Jun 3, 2002
Existence of the '66 Inter Bob H - Sun Jun 2, 2002

Progressive front fork springs the MK II -Bob -Thu, 30 May
How have low bars affected ride -Bob -Tue28 May
Burton Bike Bits info -Anders- Tue28 May
Built at Bradford-on-Avon - Robert S - Sat, 25 May
Compression plates under the cylinder barrels - gREgg - Sat, 25 May
The "TT-7 Interceptor" name - gREgg -Wed 22 May
1965 seems to have been the last year of Redditch production Wed 22 May
My Series 1 was a 1966. - Don - Wed 22 May
The 1966 model year ... it really doesn't exist, - gREgg -Wed 22 May
A owners manual for a 1966 Royal Enfield 750 TT Interceptor - Eddie -Wed 22 May
Your bike is either a Chief or a Trailblazer. -Don-/Howard- Wed 22 May
A 1960 Indian RE Twin Howard- Wed 22 May
Boyer Bransden ignition for Inter? -Anders/Royal/George/Dick- Tue 21 May
1970 SII Interceptor for sale. -Rick F/ Royal Thu 16 May
Interceptor Tyre (Tire) Discussions. -Don-/gREgg/Bob Wed 15 May
Ben's New Interceptor -Ben/gRegg/Rick L/Orlan/Royal- Mon 13 May
How to start the Interceptor! -Ben/gRegg/Rick L/Royal- Mon 13 May
My first was a 350cc single -Billy Dean -Saturday, May 11, 2002
Tank transfer "Royal" in red script -Bob Fri 10 May
Paint info that might be of interest . -Bob Tue 7 May
Rickman production started in 1970 with six prototypes -Bob Mon 6 May
Virus vigilance ! -Royal- Mon May 6

Lazy K, a 1972 Rickman Royal Enfield 750 interceptor cafe racer(30/04/2002)
Juha, Looking for Straight Pipes(20/04/2002)
Daytona, no matter how much my wife nagged me(19/04/2002)
Dr Bob, The Service Manual (17/04/2002)
Garry, my interceptor is not exactly pristine(11/04/2002)
Steve Johnson Help, I need to buy one. (09/04/2002)
Orlan Riggs I have a rare California Special (08/04/2002)
Ray from Isle of Man - the only one to race an Enfield twin here (07/04/2002)
Alan Kaplan Sag Harbor, New York U.S, Interceptor -68 (03/04/2002)

Help to identify an MK 1 (Sun Jul 28, 2002 )

Hi All
Pls, do sign-on when making postings. This group does not allow for posting by just e-mailing the group (saves you all a lot of junk mail). I have to moderate outside postings but I'm going away for 2- 3 weeks.
Richard (below) is asking for help to identify an MK 1, year etc.
I will load up his picture as well. Do anyone have a good idea of the year for this one and if in origonal condition. Not sure what he meant about the second photo, as it didn't come out right, but I'll post that in a couple of weeks.
Cheers
Royal

I got the id numbers mine say 195 on the front on the front fork. No fxxx numbers.. I do have a 4579 raised on the other ,alloy case states 1a 195, and on the front of block i have ag7 2819..

Please help me i.d. The model of bike i have here from looking at various photos i think its similar to that 1967 photo on the web site http://www.ozemate.com of a 1967 mki but the pipes do not turn up and there is something i cannot i.d. Thats on that photo between the tank and the seat

Thanks
Richard

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Primary Transmission Troubles (Thu Jul 25, 2002)

Thanks Bob my new clutch basket is visably out of true and, my old one was so out of round that, as it rotated the primary chain would tighten then loosen with every rotation so, maybe your on to something here.

My clutch works "kinda OK" when cold but, when it heats up ....man! what a mess, it gets so bad that I have to brace myself against the bike trying to creep ahead at a stop. I do try and select neutral before coming to a stop but this is often as not a hit or miss exercise and as the clutch will not release properly the gears are "loaded" and so the neutral finder will not work.

Thanks to all for your feedback, much appreciated.
Cheers
Rick Fisher

I won't vouch for this method since I've never tried it, but I've read on another list that guitar strings can be used to aid in cleaning out small carb passageways. Apparently they come in different sizes, they're soft enough not to score the surfaces, bendable to get around corners, and hard enough with some carb cleaner sprayed in first to scrape away the grunge and gum build up from fuel.

Bob Cram

I don't know if this is pertinent to your problem , but when I dissembled my clutch I found over .060 " clearance in the bushing of the clutch "basket" as it rode on the hub.

The N.O.S bushing I got from a reputable source yielded .055" clearance, so I had a local machine shop make one up that brought the clearance down to .006". Now, even with old plates and springs, clutch slip and drag are both gone, and it only cost me $50. Maybe one of these days I'll treat her to a new set of "corks & springs".

BOB ST. A

 

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Getting my Amals to idle!

I have owned my 1970 Series II since 1972 and through all the repairs and rebuilds I have had one continuing problem - getting my Amals to idle! When I come to a stop light my idle might creep up to 3000 - very embarrassing! It seems to be a physical problem of the slides not bottoming out. I've changed cables, re-routed cables, had the slides machined, fitted new return springs, even raised the tank to get better cable clearance.

Any suggestions, dopey or brilliant would be appreciated. (Prefer brilliant).

Gridley Bruce

Re: SII Amals

The Walridge Motors print catalogue has just such a sectional drawing of an Amal Concentric that Gregg recommended. Walridge's website is
http://www.walridge.com/default.htm

They have an online catalogue, but it doesn't have the illustrations, just a list of parts and prices. You'll need to order the printed catalogue.

Bob Cram

Hi Gridley
Well here's something that may help. Check to make sure that your throttle bore doesn't have a hole in it from a casting flaw allowing engine vacuum to pull extra fuel from the float bowl, ( this is quite common with mono blocks and occasionally concentrics too) or, perhaps the advancer is hung up at full advance (returning to null when the engine is shut off fooling you into think-ing that all is well every time).

You say you have a Series II so just observe the timing marks on the alternator rotor at different RPM through the peep hole in the primary cover and, also, try boiling those pesky idle passage ways out with phosphoric acid and an eye dropper (be careful with this stuff !) and hopefully before you get that unmistakable "acidic odor" of metal going off you have flushed the passage ways out under a tap.

The latest North American RE Club newsletter (#69 ) has a neat cutaway picture of a concentric showing the different passageways and how small and there- fore easy they are to plug up with grunge.
Hope this helps.
Rick Fisher
Series II, too

Gridley,

While it is possible your new throttle cables have been fabricated incorrectly and are thus hanging up your throttle slides, it is quite easy to check. With the throttle stop screw backed right off, make sure you can adjust the outer cable so there is slack. That way you know for certain the cables are not preventing the slide from bottoming out in its travel.

It may also be the case that the idle passages inside your carb body(s) may be plugged, in which case your idle speed is not being set by the correct mixture paths. This has always been a problem with Amals, and if the idle passage is blocked with residue, the passage can be unbelievably difficult to clear it out. Resolution usually requires removing the plug in the carb body at the venturi. Try to locate a sectional drawing of the carb body to better visualize what you are trying to accomplish ... spraying with carb cleaner will generally be futile.

All this said, I would caution you that 90% of carb problems are electrical. I'd advise you to check your auto advance unit to be sure that it is :

a) for the correct direction of rotation, and
b) returning to the fully retarded position at an idle.

Often, the auto advance unit will become sticky if it hasn't been serviced, and/or the small return springs have come adrift.

The advance units on the Enfield Series 1 & 1a engines live a comparatively easy life, but the advance unit on the Series II is mounted like the one on the Norton Commando.

Having the advance unit stuck on the end of the camshaft subjects it to a lot of shock loading, and its location in a small hot cavity makes for a pretty hostile operating environment. Have a look there first: you may find its the root of your problems.

.. gREgg

Apart from cables sticking, an uneven idle is frequently caused by an air leak somewhere that is upsetting the standard fuel/air ratios. You need to check everywhere air can get in: around the inlet manifold, around the slides if they are worn, at the mixture screw, etc. etc.

The manifold flange on Amals sometimes get bent by overtightening the nuts that mount the carb to the head. Check your carb mounting flange on something you know is flat like a piece of plate glass. If the flange isn't flat, you can lay emery paper on the flat surface and then just rub your flange on that until it is flat again.

An easy way to check if the slides are too worn and letting air through is to idle the bike without air filter and push the slides forward with your hand. Make sure the bike is warmed up first. If the idle changes when you do that, you probably need new slides.

Bob Cram

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Oil pressure relief valve and oil pressure warning light

(Tue Jul 23, 2002 )

What allways wondered me was how on earth the heads on the Series II engine could ever get any oil. According to the book the main pressure relief valve does not let through any oil to the heads before there is a pressure of 65 psi to the big ends. I did not have the impression that any Enfield oil pump normally builds up that pressure.

But when I took out the pressure valve it was more sophisticated than the drawing in the parts book and the manual suggested. Not just a spring and a ball, but a plunger with a small drilling through it. The idea being that allways a small flow of oil goes
through the valve, even if it is closed. My question.. is this original for a Series II engine?

I put an oil pressure warning light on the turret of the oil filter. Very usefull.. one day when running at about 4000 rpm I see this light flickering. No oil pressure! When going down to 2500 rpm oil pressure comes back. Typical case of cavitation I would say. Back home I check the oil level.. shame on me.. hardly one litre left. About the modification Peter Tromp Meesters talks about ( see ...) this air chamber in the oil supply line to the pump.. He did this trick on my engine and I think it works fine.
Paulus Boortman

 

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Hi, Hope your readers enjoy it. Attached is a small portion of the road test, all of the specifications, and two pictures I took with my digital camera. Not really great quality, but the best I could do... Billy Dean

1965 750cc King-Kong-Royal Enfield Interceptor 1965 Cycle World Road

Test Annual Overall… "Most motorcycles have have an indefinable something we call character, and because they have this quality, they also almost invariable have appropriate names.

We do not know what the average Royal Enfield Interceptor owner is calling his machine these days, but we would offer "King Kong" as a suggestion. No other name that comes to mind so completely describes the Interceptor-it is truly big and hairy.

Of course, others have its size, but none have the Interceptor's sheer brute performance, It is, by an impressive margin, the fastest true road machine we have ever tested. Fast in the sense that it will reach 120mph, and cover a ¼ mile from a standing start in 13.8 seconds, with a terminal speed of 96 mph…"

See the whole Test of King Kong

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Clutch Drag and Hitchcock's belt conversion kit.!(Sun Jul 21, 2002)

The picture speaks for itself, I think ... this is the Hitchcock's belt conversion kit. No miles yet, but things are looking good ...Your files are attached and ready to send with this message.

Karin Jones

Karin will you keep us all informed on how this clutch conversion worked out for you? Just had a horrible day in an I-5 traffic jam with mine dragging. Any one "out there" have a secret way to set these clutches so they won't drag after they heat up?
Cheers
Rick Fisher
Series II

Rick,

The problem is due primarily to insufficient lift in the release mechanism due to wear, incorrect assembly, and made worse by incorrect adjustment.

Seems to me I've posted numerous suggestions over the past few months. Check them out in the archives ... there's no silver bullet, it's just a matter of knowing the issues and making sure the details are correct.

Meanwhile, the best advice I can give is to use your neutral finder on ever opportunity , and *never* sit with the engine running and your clutch pulled in.

..gREgg

gREgg has provided some excellent advice on Clutch adjustment, which you can find in the knowledgebase of the web site for this discussion group.(www.ozemate.com/interceptor)
A direct link to this particular item is
http://www.ozemate.com/interceptor/kbengine1.htm#alt3 Clutch
Adjustment
Cheers
Royal

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Shrouded Rear Shockies! Wed Jul 17, 2002

Some months ago, I read an article which included a section on the variations of rear shocks the factory installed on the GP 7's and TT 7's through the last years they were built. I recall a reference to switch on the TT 7's between shrouded and unshrouded springs (or vice versa) but can't recall the year it happened.

I thought I'd read it in Roy Bacon's book on post-war REs, but I can't find it there now. Does this ring a bell with anyone? Or, more to the point, can anyone tell me definitely which shock is right for a '68 1A built in Feb '68 (if that level of detail is available)? Thanks in advance.

Rod

 

-Hi Rod..well I thought this was a pretty intriguing question so I went to the text of a Steve Wilson book I have on Brit bikes that includes RE's, and according to him there were TWO models Interceptor made in '68, (easrly '68 anyway) one had the chrome shrouds and one with exposed chrome springs, both were 1As...so I guess you have to know which of these two you have.
If you go to the photo section of this site you'll see a scanned pic of specs for the Interceptors (from this book )up to and including '68, if you read the details for the '67 models they seem to be the same for the '68.
I'm thinking that these specs are for the early 1A for '68.. So according to all this there were actually FOUR Interceptors for '68, the Road Sports and Road Scrambler in the early part of the year, the later 68 1/2 series1A, then the Series 11 after (Sept?)

So after all this rambling I'm thinking that if your bike looks like a traditional 1A with upswept pipes and the chrome tank then it should actually have exposed chrome springs on the rear shocks for early '68

There a picture of such an Interceptor in the sales brochure section on the website from a sales brochure from '67, its the Road Scrambler model...
Now thats a surprise
Bob

Good Afternoon-
I would agree with Bob: I recently saw some dealer pictures for the Series 1A, 1967 and early 1968. The scrambler had chrome exposed shocks, whereas the sports bike had chrome covers over the springs.

Dave

..... there were TWO models Interceptor made in '68, (easrly '68 anyway) one had the chrome shrouds and one with exposed chrome springs, both were 1As...so I guess you have to know which of these two you have.

Considering that in 68 the factory was recently moved and the finical health was not great I think it would be expected that cash flow problems would drive them to be rather 'flexible' with suppliers and compenents.

If you were a buyer and someone offered you a lot of rear shocks at an attractive price, AND your normal supplier was pressuring you to pay for the last 4 months of deliveries, what would you do? You'd probably be a hero for maintaining the supply of needed components to keep the assembly line running.

my 2 cents

RickL
67 Mk1a
60 Metoer Minor
53 Bullet
bitsa trails pile of parts that wants to be a project

 

Hi Rick, this excellent book is part of a series by S. Wilson called "British MCs since 1950". The one I have is volume 4, its ISBN# 0-85059-830-3, theres lots of great RE facts here, but I understand it is out of print..so good luck
Bob

Thanks Bob "I will leave no stone unturned" *smile*
Rick

just as a note in passing my 1968 1a has the upswept pipes and the chrome covered shocks. this bikes as some of you know was restored by Rick Brown, Victoria. but as in any case there is bound to be variations which add to the mystery.

"tvr1973"

 

The official parts book shows the following:

1. Scrambler uses exposed chrome springs
2. Road Racer uses chrome covers

Of course, Rick' s theory regarding "supplier du jour" as a means for creative cash flow management has been used by many a small company during difficult times. I have no doubt Enfield would have resorted to it, though I'd imagine both types of shock came from the same supplier, Girling.

.. gREgg

I agree, the scrambler had exposed springs and the racers shrouded. All the shocks were by Girling, there was no other manufacturer at that time period ( RE did make their own shocks originally before changing to Armstrongs circa 1955 and then changed to Girling in later years ).

I do remember seeing as I recall maybe 200 Girling shocks in yellow boxes which had come out of the factory after it closed. I don't think they were pre-assembled with shrouds, I think the factory must have installed shrouds on an as needed basis.
Roger.

Thanks for the discussion and opinions guys. After which, I guess the definite answer is that there is no definite answer. The parts book is clear, and most restorations today seem to have either unshrouded or semi-shrouded versions. On the other hand, in Roy Bacon's book, the few pictures of contemporary TT 7s seem to have fully shrouded shocks, although the pictures aren't that clear.

My bike had the full shrouds on it when I bought it last year, and they look as if they'd been on there from day one, but who knows. A variation of Rick's theory might be with the whole Brit bike scene winding down, Girlings was willing to part with one model at a substantial discount, which RE was happy to take advantage of. Anyway, since the restoration consensus seems to side with the parts book, I'm going for the unshrouded version.

Thanks again for the input.

Rod

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Subject: Oil for transmission (Sun Jul 14, 2002)

Pete has problems finding Oil without friction modifiers. Thinking about automatic trans oil? Don't sound right to me. Any comments?

Royal

I have been using 10w-30 motor oil in my series ii primary case. However, these days it is hard to find 10-30 oil without friction Modifiers.

I believe i can use automatic transmission fluid in the primary case. Is this correct? And if so, there are several types available in the Us (e.g. Dextron, type "f" for ford products, etc.). What do you Recommend?

Thanks for your help! (Pete)

Dear Pete,
Here comes the lubricant questions for the Interceptor, I was wondering when we were going to get on to the subject.
For primary lubrication in my R.E.s, I've been using Harley - Davidson "Primary chaincase lube" available from any authorised Harley - Davidson dealer. When you
fill your primary with regular oil, there is a tendancy for the clutch plates to stick together due to the 'cling' of the oil.

H-D's "primary chaincase lube" alleviates that problem giving good clutch operation and primary chain lube at the same time. I have been using it in all my R.E.'s since 1984 when the product first came on the market. It works well.
Roger.

There are a few oils specially formulated for lubricating wet clutch/primary/
transmission systems. Bel-Ray Light Viscosity Gear Oil is one excellent choice,
as well as Golden Spectro Primary Chaincase Oil, Redline MTL, and others. I
have used all of these products in my own and customer's bike for many years
with excellent results.

Bob ST

 

I'm still pretty new to RE's, so I won't attempt to give a definitive answer. However, from my other Brit bike experience I do know that lots of Norton riders and Triumph riders with Triumphs prior to 1969 use Type F automatic transmission fluid in their primary chaincases all the time. In 1969,

Triumph changed the lubrication system to improve engine breathing so that the chaincase and engine oil flowed back and forth between the two. Therefore, the Triumphs in 69 and later cannot use transmission fluid in the chaincase.

Given the basic similarities of clutch types of all 3 bikes, I would think it would be okay to use transmission fluid in the RE chaincase provided there is no way it can
escape the chaincase and get into the engine. Even on the early Triumphs, this can happen if certain oil seals go bad.

Bob Cram

I agree with Bob, ATF works just fine in the Enfield primary drive. After
all, it is designed to lubricate and transmit power without slip, which are
much the same challenges we face with our primary drive systems.

Only thing to be sure that your chain tensioner shoe is of the proper grade
of nylon. A few years ago, a friend melted the cheap nylon replacement shoe
on his tensioner. I don;t know whether oil would have protected it any
better, but it sure self-destructed quickly with ATF.

.. gREgg

 

I am also new to RE's, but have spent 30 years working on MANY brands of motorcycles for a living, and I agree that Type F trans fluid will give adequate service in the types of clutch and primary in question.

Chances are, if you have a problem in that area, it won't be the fluid that causes it. That being said, purpose formulated lubricants for this application are not hard to find, they're not overly expensive, (given the infrequent need for changing), and they probably do at least a slightly better job than trans fluid.

Most Japanese dirt bikes use wet clutch/primary/trans oil, so your local Honkawazukimaha dealer can supply, if not guidance, at least the oils.

BOB ST

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How to install the rubberized Swing arm bushes

on a long arm Mk 1Interceptor? (Thu Jul 11, 2002 )
(from feedback off the web site)

This like many things is a fairly easy task, as long as one has the correct tools & tackle. Most important item you need a hydraulic press with about 20 ton capacity, and at least 6" of travel.

You make up a stepped ring for the press bed, to act as an end stop on for the tube that the bushes are pressed into. This ring needs to be have a hole in it that will allow the bushes to pass through it as they are pressed out.

You need to press the bushes out with a long tube that's small enough to slide through the swing arm, but large enough to catch the OD of the steel jacket of the bush. Now, set it all up in your press, and push it all out ... it will take some doing. The bushes will be scrap after this operation, if they were not before.

When the first bush comes free of the swing arm, a small spacer will drop out. Be sure to catch it and put it aside. More on this later.Finish pressing the second bush out. Reassemble with the new parts, being careful to re-insert the spacer between the bushes.

Now, for some first hand advice: When I replaced the bushes on my Series 1a, the replacements from Burtons were too long .... good thing I checked! Consequently, I had to shorten the spacer by the amount in excess on the bushes. Again, a fairly simple job, as long as you have suitable measuring equipment, and a lathe.

Hope this is clear enough to understand,
.. gREgg

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American Indian Interceptor models Tue Jul 3, 2002

Does anybody have a cross reference wit hthe American Indian Interceptor Engine use. Like which year make of Interceptor motors were used when? See question from Indian owner below: (regards Royal)

I have a Royal Enfield ( made in America under the Indian Name, they made them between 1955-1960 ) I am unsurewhat Model of Indian it is, and I am unsure of the corresponding English Royal Enfield Model .

It looks like an Intercepter but I wish to know so the I may get parts, and books on it. Just a quick clarification on My part....The Frame # is 4759 The Engine numbers are B1008/SMRB9507 and the transmission #is AM54

Hi Royal...just off the top of my head this sounds like the Indian Trailblazer which I believe used the Meteor700 motor, the big twin for its time, and as such is not an Interceptor motor at all, too early. Others will know more than I, but the early Indian Enfield badge swaps didnt involve Interceptors...only the later Clymer ones.. Doesn't help much but its a start
Bob

At 01:34 PM 03/07/02 +0000, you wrote:
Does anybody have a cross reference with the American Indian Interceptor Engine use.

The Frame # is 4759 The Engine numbers are B1008/SMRB9507 and the transmission #is AM54 Correct me if I'm wrong, but...

SMRB would be 700 Super Meteor wouldn't it? That makes the Indian a
Trailblazer, if my info is correct. AFAIK, the only Indian brand Interceptor ever built was the Clymer SII. That engine would have had a 1B prefix, I think.

To help with identification, Interceptor barrels are symmetrical front to back, whereas Meteor, SM and Connie barrels taper towards the rear, IIRC.

Hope this helps.

Robert S

Hi All :

Through all My research on the web, I have found out that the Meteor was the trailblazer but the Constellation was the basis for the Apache, The Constellation was used as the starting point for the Interceptor Mk1 in 1958/1959 era. As the Royal
Enfield(Indian ) company was disolved in America in 1960 , I have good feelings ( but not hard data) that the Constellation 1958 was the basis of the bike. As the fenders are chromed and the bike is set up in a trials configuration. Well I would like an opinion ( Authoratative ) on the bike. The Meteor and Constellation used the same Motor, but the Bikes differ in their setup.

Thanks a Bunch
I will keep Lurking in the background
Jennifer

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Good Enough Mufflers or dissatisfaction? (Wed Jul 3, 2002 )

A note came in to the web site about Mufflers. Kickan has bought a pair recently, but with the bike all apart hasn't been able to make the same assessment as the one who sent in the note (below).

In addition to his questions. Do anybody have experience with mufflers from Hitchcock? Performance, Sound (note acceptable) how well or bad they fit and if anyone recommend an alternative supplier for mufflers? See note.

Regards Royal
Note follows

I recently purchased a set of seriesII mufflers from Hitchcocks. while they have steel baffles in them as do my original set, they are not straight through baffles like the originals are. I'm sure this won't help performance much.

The mounting bracket isn't as wide as the original, and doesn't wrap around the inside of the muffler as much either.[ no big deal, but still not exact pattern] My biggest complaint though was the fact [as Gregg mentioned]that they didn't
have a round indentation in them to clear the axle as my originals
do.

They had a crude 'pinch ' in them in the correct location . But the pinch only indented the top and bottom, leaving the center still protruding . [ and still hitting the axle].

................a reply below

I just purchased a set for my Series II from British Cycle in Nova Scotia,
Canada and they were absolutely outstanding. When I ordered them I was told
they were made by Wassels and were straight through with no baffling (just like
the originals). They sound great and were blemish free with perfect chrome when
I took them out of the box. I'd recommend these guys any day of the week.
Rick Fisher