Royal Enfield Interceptor Owners
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Before April 2003.....Carbsize Questions (Sun Nov 2, 2003 3:09 am)
From: "paulus46"
No messages since 7 october?! To wake you up this question about carbs.. what wonders me.. my Interceptor II when I bought it had 32 mm concentrics, and an inlet tract opened up to suit. In articles mostly a 30 mm is mentioned as standard, but sometimes I read about 32 concentrics. Was this maybe an option in combination with high compression pistons and hot camshafts?
Paulus,I've never heard of Inters fitted with 32 mm carbs from the factory. However, I do know the Norton factory did this on 750cc Commandos after the first few years of manufacture. (They went through a confusing array of inlet manifolds to adapt 32 mm carbs to 30mm ports, and then finally went 32 mm all the way. Larger carbs will improve high speed performance, but I question how much benefit you would see overall unless much more was done to the engine. .. gREgg
The 750 Commando came standard with 30 mm Amals up through 1972. In 1972, the 750 Commando Combat had 32 mm Amals. From 1973 on, the 850 Commando had 32 mm Amals.
Robert Patch
I guess you'r absolutely right, gREgg. Interceptor dont feel too well at much above 5000 rpm. so what is the idea of 32 mm carburators. Because those 32 carbs were worn out anyway I changed to 30 mm. On the other hand.. the opening up of the inlet tracts looked so professional, and Mick Walker in his book on Royal Enfield mentions 32 mm in his chapter about the series II. Sloppy writer probably..
As I personally know Mick Walker I can assure you that as a writer he researches his subject in great depth and do not believe he would liked to be classed as a 'sloppy writer'. If it were not for him and others similarly minded people you would have no reference books.
David AtkinsonFurther to the discussion on carb size. Last night at my local British bike club meeting I watched a guy start up a Norton Atlas that was fitted with a single 34mm Mikuni carb. He turned on the key, gave it two liesurely kicks and the engine started. That bike idled perfectly from the start and he never even touched the twist grip. He stood around for a while putting on his helmet and gloves and that bike idled like a clock the whole time. When he rode away, the engine accelerated smoothly without a cough or spit. I am now convinced that this is the way to go. Anybody know where I can get a manifold to convert my Series II to single carb?
Madmax
The Royal Enfield Meteor 700cc twin had a single carb manifold that should fit the Interceptor. It used either an SU carb or a monoblock. I imagine that you could probably scare one of them up. I put a single Mikuni 36mm flat slide with an accelerator pump on my 850 Norton. If you twist the throttle on that one, you might as well go inside and eat lunch until it dries out.
Robert Patch
Madmax.Having converted quite a few Norton's to both single and twin Mikuni configuration I highly recommend you convert the series two! All you will be giving up is maybe 2mph at the top end. Start-up and idle, on the other hand, will be one thing you'll wish you had had all along. However, I would like to make a few recommendation before you jump into it. First off is to insure you use the correct needle, needle jet, main jet and pilot jet on the carb, (or carbs if you set it up for 2). If you are setting up for the single carb then you will need a 34mm Mikuni with a 220 main jet, 159 P0 needle jet, 6DH3 Needle, 35 Idle jet, #3 Slide and a 2.0 Idle Air Jet. (The part numbers are Mikuni Part numbers and should be easily ordered at any local Japanese bike shop.), As always, start with the needle in the middle position. And, very important, make sure the opening on the manifold mount , (stock should be approx. 30mm), is opened to 34mm and tapers smoothly to the standard inside diameter. This is required to prevent a burble in the fule/air flow which will cause the fuel to parcipitate out and cause an over-rich condition on one cylinder or the other. DO NOT get a mikuni with an accelerator pump. What Robert says is correct... It will dump entirely too much gas into the bike and foul the plugs. (By the way... You can use Amal MkII carbs too... Afterall, Mikuni purchased the patent rights from Amal in order to make their carbs.
Good Luck,Rick
The single carb manifold as used on the 700cc engines will not fit on an Interceptor. This is because the mounting studs on the older twins are arranged vertically, whereas the 750's are on a horizontal line, in order to accept the carb flanges directly.I think you'll also find the centerlines of the inlet ports on the 700 twins were closer together than the 750's, and the more sporting models had a larger inlet port diameter. Also, the single carb fitted to the 700 cc engines was always an Amal; it was Triumph who used SU's for a time. An SU was a popular conversion for a while on Commandos (known as the 'Phoenix Conversion') in the UK.
The last of the 700 cc Connies had twin carbs, but they were the same heads as before, but fitted with inlet manifolds that splayed outward to make room for the carbs. A little known fact with these twins is that they required tool box lids with 'ears' on them to shield the carb inlets and thus prevent mixture problems at high speeds.
I learned many years ago that Mikuni's do not like having their throttle open while starting, even the slightest bit. It must be closed. I discovered this on a hybrid I built consisting of a Commando powered by a Yamaha engine. I couldn't believe how hard it was to start ... until once I let the throttle slip shut while kicking it over ... and it started like magic. That was the secret, and it started first kick thereafter.
On the topic of who bought who's carb patents, it seems to me that whereas the Amal 276/289, Monobloc/Concentric series carbs existed for many years, the carb design underlying the MKII was originated by Mikuni in the 1960s. The MKII Amal didn't arrive until the 1970s, at a time that many Japanese bikes were beginning to the switch to CV carbs.
... gREgg
Here's my two cents on the Amal/Mikuni thing. Mikuni corp commisioned
Amal to design a slide type carburator for them around 1964 and Amal
did just that. Amal not under the constraints of penny pinching
British stock holders did design a superior carb that we know as the
Mikuni and Amal realizing that this was a better carburator than the
Concentric decided to offer their new creation (the Mikuni)to the
British Motorcycle industry but when they went to do so Mikuni
demanded a roylaty on every carburator the Brits would use and the
Brits balked at that.This was similar to when Sony wanted a royalty for every VCR built by any other manufacturer that used the Beta format so Panasonic designed the VHS format (and ultimatly sunk Beta). So the Brits decide to stick with the Concentric rather than pay royalties to the Japanese. Ever notice how similar a MK-II Amal is to a Mikuni?
Cheers
Rick Fisher
70 MK-II
I think I saw a portion of that article in a recent Classic Bike magazine, where the writer claimed the Series II came with 32mm Concentrics.We all know that is not true... which I guess Mick does not. Too bad; there is already enough bad information going around these days with no way for the average guy to tell the difference. History is constantly being re-written.
..gREgg
Greg,
I sit corrected. Thanks.
Robert
I have not found an easy way to put a single carburator manifold on the Series II. I have found that bikebandit.com sells Mikuni carbs for just over $100 US. So now I am thinking that it would be easier to fit two 30mm carbs instead of a single 34mm. Do you have any experience with running two Mikunis on an SII?
Madmax
Another Bike ID (Tue Nov 11, 2003 4:03 am)
From: "todd_johnson30"
I have a 1960's Interceptor that has been in my Dad's barn for the last 20 yrs (he finally gave it to me) it belonged to a brother that passed in the 80's, I have it now but no title to speak of, it has the series 1 motor from what I have seen on your website , open handlebars , dark green mettalic painted frame & gas tank, the forks/headlight mount covers are chrome with no provision for boots,I still have the carb tops (carbies are missing ) & they appear to be Amal concentric tops & cables, it has the auto advance ignition. & one last unusual thing is a plastic green painted battery box, the Frame number is 638, the engine is # AGZ 3259, the # under left cylinder is 1A-638, any help in identifying this bike , would be greatly appreciated ,& will help to get another increble machine back on the street.
Thanks in advance , Todd
Todd,
Engine # prefix 1A indicates its a Series 1A. So 1967 or 1968. earlier series 1's had a metal tool/battery box mounted behind the carbs. Series 1A 's and 2's had the little "plastic" battery cover. Frame and batt. cover where black. Under that luvly green paint does it have the small all chrome gas tank or the painted tank with chromed panels and plastic badges? Are you in Australia? Sounds like a fun project.
Don in Niagara
It would be interesting to know where Todd's Series 1A lives. It is fairly close in number to my own bike. My engine is 1A-513, gearbox is AGZ-3284.Since the numbers stamped on my engine and gearbox show they were mates right from the factory, and their numbers overlap with Todd's, it's quite likely they were in the same shipment. Mine was originally shipped to Toronto, Ontario. It now lives in Ottawa, Ontario.
Incidentally, my bike is registered as a 1968, which is confirmed by the details of the oil tank and sump drains. Photos of it are on Royal's site.
.. Gregg
I am not near my Series 1A, but I was under the impression that there is no 1A in from of my frame number which is 321. (this drives the DMV NUTS!). Also I thought that the battery cover was not standard on the Series 1A. IIRC that common magazine ad of the day shows the 1A with no batt. cover. I am happy to be proven wrong here.-RickL
www.ChiVinMoto.com
Rick,
If you read my post you will see I did not say frame and engine #s match. Only on the Series 2 was that the case. I said the frame and battery cover where black, not green.. Don't know if the 1As came with a batt. cover as Series 2s did. You may be right about that.
REgards,
Don in NiagaraThanks everyone for the timely answer on what machine I have, (this way the adventure of the parts quest can procede), to answer Gregg's earlier question , I live not far from you , on the other side of the lake near Detroit MI. I've studied the pics of your bike on Royal's site , & it is a nice example of what I would like have when I complete this Interceptor. One other question I have : is it possible to sleeve the piston cylinders back to original spec.? mine are bored .60 over from what is stamped on top of the pistons that came out of it, Thanks again ..........
ToddTodd,
Sixty thou' over is about as far as you can go, and I would not feel good about cylinders that have been re-sleeved, unless I knew the machinist who did the work is an ace craftsman. Not many of those fellows around! In fact, I wouldn't feel too comfortable with 0.060" over bores either, because they are getting pretty thin at the bottom. Unless the boring is done very carefully, the liner can crack where it is unsupported.
Three things to watch if boring for sleeves:
1. The cylinder sleeve must not only be a heavy interference fit in the bored out cylinder block, but it must also be a nice slip fit where it enters into the crankcase mouth. You don't have much to work with.2. The boring job must be dead vertical to the cylinder's seating surface, or the cylinder will jam in the crankcase mouth before it seats in the crankcase face ... not that it is ever permissible to have a bore that's off-square .... but the repercussions are even worse on these engines.
3. The upper end of the sleeve must be chamfered to accept the cross ring ... which will have the tendency to press the sleeve downward when things are buttoned up. The best approach would be to have a sleeve that's flanged at the top to fit into a recess in the cylinder block, thereby giving a solid seating for the cross ring, and withstanding the end loading. Again, this is pretty tricky work.
It might be much easier to find a pair of used barrels.One more thing before you go too far though: measure the bores to be sure they are really 0.060" over the 750cc bore size. Those pistons just may be 0.060" over the 700cc size bore, which would make them only 0.020" over 750cc bore size. The standard/unworn bore size for a 750 is 2.792", so it should be fairly easy for you to determine what you have.
HTH,
... gREgg
I've learned that some of the factory photos are far from accurate representations of the production bikes. I've got several photos that show enough detail that betrays the fact the bikes were prototype lash-ups for the photo, or at least early development hacks.One photo I have of a Series 1A shows it with the wrong engine type, namely
the style having the removable camshaft covers. Guess they never thought
that future enthusiasts would be using the photos as reference materials.Regarding the battery cover, I do not recall seeing them on the Series 1A's when they were new, and nor do they appear in either the 1967 or 1968 parts books.
.. gREgg
Interceptor specific tools wanted (Wed Nov 12, 2003 10:28 am)
From: "trident398277"
Does anyone have Interceptor tools number W. 49925 Tappet guide extractor that I can borrow as valid comparitor to make a copy from? Also E. 5425 Pump disc lapping tool. (Or any of the tools at the back of the shop manual).
Cheers
Rick Fisher
70 MK II
Interceptor stage one,re-imported from USA (Wed Nov 12, 2003 3:15 am)
From: "bantam1967"
Had to wait more than one year,but now I got one. Another Interceptor engine!My advertisement on the buy and sell page can be cancelled. Bought it in Holland,were I live. Frame number is x998,the registration docs say Interceptor stage one,re-imported from USA in 1969. Engine was in few parts,now i got engine nrYB 16765, one carb.Is it a re-imported engine from Canada?My question is,what type and year Ihave now. I want to buy the right manuel and spare list.
Regards Fred.
Hi Fred,
My Series 1 was registered originally in New York state as a 1966 model year. The engine number is YB16746 and the frame number is 70809. I know that this bike was original. The engine #s are very close, only 19 numbers apart. But what about the frames? If yours has the single carb head it was known as the Interceptor Galaxy and and may have had lower compression heads, ... 7.5 to 1, I believe.
REgards
Don in Niagara
Same here, I have YB15981 that was registered as a 66 in California. Bobby B
Calgary AB.Hello Fred,
There are quite a number of Interceptors having engine numbers in the same range as yours. It is a late 1965 model, which was probably licensed in 1966.
Odd that you say it has one carb: Interceptor heads were made with the manifolds for the twin carbs cast 'in unit'. To run a single carb, you would have to add a 'joining' manifold to bridge the heads, or modify the heads from a 700cc engine (which I've seen done) to clear the larger diameter studs of the 750.
It's difficult for me to say whether your machine originated in Canada (which is where I live). However, the REOC could certainly confirm where the factory originally shipped it to. Canadian bikes do find themselves in other countries though: my friend Ronald Ruepert, who lives not far from you in Delden, has a Constellation that came to the Netherlands from Canada.
.. gREgg
Fender/ seat support. (Wed Nov 12, 2003 7:18 am)
From: "bobbybhb"
I have a 66 that the mudguard carrier was cut off and welded to the frame. I bought another one and it seems to be different. Part #45780 as listed for the 64. My problem is that the used part does not line up with the origanal mounting holes in the fender( where platic covers bolt on) near the tail light. Are there different lenghts for the arms to extend to the fender?
#1734 has had a hard life and is only a remnant. (Wed Nov 12, 2003 7:15 am)
From: "Chris Overton"
Having just rescued the remains of F1734/1B 1734 from the elements, I want to introduce us to the group.I am Chris Overton. We live in Rossland, British Columbia, Canada. That is
between Vancouver BC and the Rocky Mountains, a few miles from the US border.I am getting back into biking after a too-long break. (Previous bikes were a home-built and a series of small Japanese bikes.) Interceptors were just the great looking bikes in the adverts that I never considered attainable. That changed when I found my new bike. I am clearing shop space and collecting parts, preparing for a complete teardown..
#1734 has had a hard life and is only a remnant. It was resurrected from a basket in 1975 and ridden hard until the pistons melted. Owner attempted a rebuild but, when he could not get it started, wheeled it outside. 20 years later I dug it out from a heap of beer cans and brought it home. It was stripped in the fashion of 'the day' and lacks stands, lites, mufflers, battery back plate and cover, and anything else considered excess. (Photos available but, be warned, are not for the faint of heart.) Some 'vitals' such as the ignition advance have also strayed. The after-market 'ape-hangers' are gone now, so it needs handlebars too.
Like the Classicglory (BSA Sunbeam) and AJS-Matchless groups to which I also belong, this seems to be a helpful group. I look forward to getting to know everyone.
The ozemate Interceptor site is fabulous and fuels my enthusiasm.
Pleased to meet you,
Chris
Welcome Chris. Do you have a Matchless? I also have a 66 G15CSR Matchless that is a long way from being completed. I would be interested in seeing your pictures of the RE.Bobby B Calgary.
Bobby B.
Thanks for the welcome. I don't know how to post pictures to this group - maybe I can't. Anyone can contact me directly coverton@telus.net and I will send pic.'s by return.I also have a 1953 AJS 500cc Springtwin, nearly complete and original but needs a few details like magneto and handlebars; and a '95 Royal Enfield Bullet that I prefer to call a '59 because people find that more plausible. (The Bullet I bought in Calgary last year.)
G15CSR - highly desirable. I have a friend who is lusting for one; he wants to do one last restoration. (He has done many, one is in a museum.) Enough off topic. /Chris
I'm Robert Patch. I live in a Washington (Wed Nov 12, 2003 9:22 am)
From: Robert Patch
As long as we are introducing ourselves, I'm Robert Patch. I live in a Washington, D.C. suburb. I've got a 1970 Interceptor VIN# F1816 that I bought from the original owner after he drove it over a curb and bent it up. It's quite original with all of the repair records and receipts from new. The front wheel was bent, but a have a spare from a Commando.I put new fork tubes on it and had the triple clamps straightened by The Frame Man in CA. The rear wheel still needs a new rim and the swing arm is torqued. I've had it for a couple of years, but other projects have taken precedence. The bottom end has not been apart. The top end was done not too long ago. It's red & chrome.
It's almost one of those bikes that's too nice to restore and I haven't decided how to proceed. I'm leaning toward taking it all the way down and making it really shine. I've also got a 1974 Norton 850 Commando that's gotten the treatment. I've got a 1969 Dunstall Fastback that's waiting, a 1965 Atlas race bike that's turning into a 650ss for AHRMA racing and a very nice 1970 BSA Lightening that I like just the way it is. I'm a sucker for tiddlers and I have a few of them and I race a Suzuki TL1000R in AHRMA Battle of the Twins and Sound of Thunder classes.
I just found this list recently.
Robert Patch
Robert,It must have been some curb to cause the kind of damage to the forks and wheel ! Here's hoping the spine of the frame is not bent. Check also that he steering head races are not cracked, dented, or otherwise damaged . I have seen at least one bike that had been in an accident in which a chunk was broken away from the OD of the upper race. Oddly, it didn't feel as if it was damaged ...
Regarding the swing arm, I've seen a number of them over the years, torqued in the way you note. This is usually caused by one of the rear dampers failing, and causing uneven loading on the swing arm. Fortunately they are never kinked and can be straightened easily in a press.
... gREgg
It certainly seems to have dampened the previous owners enthusiasm for the bike. The races look fine. It'll be easier to see if anything else is out of kilter when I get the swing arm straightened and the front end back on.Robert
Would Amal carbs be right for a 67- 68 MK1. (Mon Nov 17, 2003 4:48 am)
From: "todd_johnson30"
J Todd writes on the feedback page:
I have recently gotten my hands on an Interceptor thats been in my family for over 20 yrs, it belonged to a brother that passed , & my Dad finally gave it to me for restoration,(been coveted for that 20 yrs)The title has been long lost , & I have no idea of the year, at first after researching your website I thought it was a 67MK-1 , but now I dont think that is the case, there are a few things that appear different from all the pics I have seen ,on the internet, the main thing is the fork tube/headlight mount its about 25" long , chrome , with no provision for shock boots, secondly , the frame & tank were painted in a dark mettalic green,
Also it has no breather under the left side cylinder, along with the numbers I hope you could shed some light on my new project.
Any comments?
Another question for those in the know,
I have a chance to get a set of Amal carbs that are used for my 67- 68 MK1 series , the # on the carbs L930-8 , &, R930-9 would these be correct for this bike?,it looks as though I have resources for all the parts I need except a set of new (or used cylinders)& the cross- ring gasket that seems to be difficult to find , thanks again all....Todd
Todd,My 68 1/2 came with 930's only they are 930-3 and 930-4; right and left respectively. It's been my understanding that the last digit/s just stands for the way the carb has been set up. Saying that the only thing you need to worry about is to make sure the slide, needle and jets are of the correct size as indicated in the parts and shop manuel with the needle clip in the correct position and you should be good to go.
Rick
Having just gone through the carb rebuild game with my '69 SII I can say for certain that the #3 1/2 slide works a lot better than the #3 slide.
MadMaxHi guys,
Nobody asked for a lesson on carbs and many of you know all this anyway, but it's raining and +3C outside so no ride this morning. The 930's on my S2 are a missmatch of parts out of the bin in the basement. Mainly tried to find slides that didn't rattle around too much in the carb bodies and it seems to run pretty good if albeit a tad rich. At the time the engine was just rebuilt and so that was a good thing. Now it's nice to not have blued pipes. I do have a set of Lectrons that will eventually replace the Animals....err I mean Amals, and I'm hoping things will be even better carb-wise. The 30 in 930 means a 30mm throat and thats the size you want. After that you can add any old slides, jets, needles, caps, floats,bowls, and metering blocks you desire. I think the number after 930 indicates the pilot jet installed. Betcha someone who's read up on this can tell us. I don't think it matters much, other things are much more vital if your making up a set of carbs from parts. Make sure the needle is perfect, not bent or with the tip damaged. Try the middle groove first. Niton tipped float needles don't leak. Check that the floats are good...no leaks. There are 2 stroke needle jets. You want 4 stroke, they have a tiny hole in the side of the neck, the 2 strokes don't. They will work but not as well. If you can get the newer float bowls with the drain plug in the bottom they simplify draining the carbs. You may find that you run rich on 107 needle jets. Try 106s. I have a number 3 slide because the 31/2s I had where too rattley. Thats probably why I'm running a bit rich, but she goes great and never fouls a plug , so thats fine. With the carb apart on the bench the slide should move freely in the body, top to bottom, but have very little side to side play.You will never get a nice regular idle if they can rattle around in there because varying amounts of air can leak into the mixing chambers. When remounting the carbs use new phenolic blocks and gaskets, make sure the O ring is good and BARELY TIGHTEN beyond finger tight. Its easy to warp the carb body if you snug down too much. Same with the float bowl. Surfaces flat and a new gasket and the screws don't need to be tight.
Lastly if you find a set of Amals at a MC flea market check the bottom of the carb body to see if it's one of the early variety with the scew in pilot jet right on the surface of the base. They don't work right. Amal changed later to a pressed-in pilot found up in the body of the carb nearer the mixing chamber that is a better setup.
BTW the pilot opening may still be threaded at the bowl but the pilot is pressed in up in the body. Once I thought the pilot had been removed and threaded one in each base. They don't idle at all with 2 pilot jets in each carb!!!
About cross rings. Don't they come in over sizes? That is if you go +40 over with pistons and rings don't you need over-size cross rings so not to interfere with the piston at the top of the stroke. I went to Avellinos years ago and bought a set when getting parts for a rebuild on the Series 1.
Have fun!
REgards,
Don in Niagara
Carbsize Questions. (Tue Nov 18, 2003 10:32 pm)
From: "Royal"
Hi gREgg and all
This is Good shit as they say in the movies. I'll have to put a digest wrap-up in the knowledgebase.Greg, my curiosity has awaken regarding re-builds using Weber carbies like at http://www.ozemate.com/interceptor/weber.htm and also as describe , scrolling down at
http://www.ozemate.com/interceptor/whyroy.htm#weber
What was the experience of that, was it worth the extra conversion job and what other engine modifications did you have to make?
Cheers
RoyalHi Amigos,
In regard to the carb discussion, as a coincidence I just picked up the JULY issue of Classic Bike Guide (things are often slower in a small town?) and the first feature bike is a restored '65 Interceptor with the single carb and manifold...
Apparently built as a police bike, and is said to be original.Even has a white paint job. Anyone else seen this issue? Nice bike. Might be able to scan a pic of it.. Bob
Was able to scan the pic from the mag of the '65 single carb Inter, its the last photo in the photo file, scanned good on my $20 scanner!! Thought it'd be of interest to add to the carb discussion.. The articles text says the bike was built as US export polce bike and then reimported to the UK and restored there..
Later
Bobhi every one the single carb inter is mine i am not verry good with computers but i have most photos on disk and will send them to group when i can get someone to do it for me..... adeinterceptor
Need cylinder barrels & cross- ring gaskets. (Fri Nov 21, 2003 9:57 am)
From: "todd_johnson30"
Hi All,I was wondering where one would find the cylinder barrels & cross- ring gaskets for the 750 interceptor , I've been doing a lot of web- surfing & the only thing i see is the alloy set from hitch-cocks , would anyone happen to have a used set with some meat left in them ? , or is my restoration doomed due to extinct parts?! Thank again Todd
Hi Todd
If you check out the index pages of the e-mails over the year (from the PIT page) on our web site (ref home page of this discussion group), you should find references to various options state side.Then there's the Spareparts dealers index off pit page as well also with Alloy Barrels, you can check the photo gallery Art, there's a picture of three Interceptors by some German enthusiasts, showing Interceptors with Alloy barrels.
A direct link to the Dealers pare is
http://www.ozemate.com/interceptor/dtrade.htmThe REOC (ref links page on web page) should also be of help, and also off the links page, places like Hitchcock, Baxters, etc. Well that'll do for now. (have you been to our web site?)
Good Luck
Royal
It's doomed and you should send me all your pieces so they don't go to waste. Seriously, I will ask a couple of people I know. Does it matter what Series of Interceptor?
Chris Overton Rossland BC
Hi Guys,
It's right out of the blue, but you could try Bob Michalak at IOTA PRODUCTS in Michigan. He used to advertise in the old REOC/NA newsletter. Last time I got a "Bulletin",- (2002)- he had a business ad in it . The phone # given is 517 467-1127. Bought stuff from him years ago and he had a lot of used and new parts. Also a good bet, try Avellino's in Mass., he's listed in Royal's site. Happy Hunting....REgards,
Don in Niagara
I have a series 1, but I dont think it makes adifference between series 1 , or 2 thanks for the help
Touring on an Interceptor? (Sat Nov 22, 2003 9:16 am)
From: "biglad_45_uk"
Hi all,
I'm planning a European trip on my Mk11 next May. Total distance should be about 1500miles. The bike was totally rebuilt this year from the wheels up, and is standard except for the electronic ignition.Has anyone any advice about any modifications I should make, special tools to take etc etc.? I've read horror stories about oil seals, oil pressure etc. At 70mph the engine's doing about 4000rpm, does it need higher gearing for a long trip? Sorry for all the questions. Just one final one....should I play it safe and go on the Honda VFR like last year!!??
Thanks
John
Hi John
This discussion group naturally concentrate on technically interesting issues, so engine problems do come up. We don't tell all the stories when everything went great. I used to tour on average 8000 miles per season, mainly in Sweden during the late 70' and early 80's. One such trip went to Amsterdam through East Germany, West Germany and Holland.Another such trip went from Sweden Through West Germany (as it were) Belgium and France. The traffic in Paris was just something to experience. During eight years I only had one problem, and yes as I described in discussions you mentioned, it was apparently that oil seal. Kickan, my wife, has taken this to heart on the bike she's renovating now. She has followed the suggestions from the web site (Ole's solution), and got a circlip to hold the oilseal in place and using the Norton Oil seal (see web site). At the same time, she had the cam shaft case (with the oilpump and that seal) on my Interceptor fixed as well.
But I wouldn't hesitate to tour the Interceptor. Once restored, we definitely will. I don't believe to lock anything up in the garage, they are to be enjoyed I believe. It's riding that counts in my book, not just polishing.
But, consider that circlip approach for securing that oilseal, and have a great ride.
Royal
P.S. A direct reference to item mentioned above:
http://www.ozemate.com/interceptor/kboil.htm#alt18 with gREggs worthy
comments following D.S
Just a word of caution to those considering modding their Series II timing covers to accept the Norton Commando lip seal. Adding a circlip to retain the seal is an excellent thing to do. However, the correct type of seal to use is the special high pressure seal that has a steel body.The original Norton seals were made this way, but over the years, aftermarket suppliers, not knowing any better, have supplied all-neoprene seals that are not up to the task.
So, when ordering a seal from a Norton parts supplier, make sure you get the
correct type...gREgg
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