Any AUST RE riders (Sun Jan 4, 2004 8:23 pm)
From: "mandrake_oz"
Fri-20th FEB, Sat-21, Sun-22 2004 will be the first national meeting
of the Royal Enfield Club of Australia, and it will be held in the Canberra
region. There is a fair likelyhood of a support vehicle leaving MELB
on FRI 20th, and returning early on the Sunday. It will have a trailer.
There are 37 members in the club at this stage; it is thought that
about 10 or so will be able to make it to the meeting. Most riders will
have the Indian Enfields; a few vintage RE's are expected, and at this
stage there are no Interceptors that we are aware of. Any Interceptor
riders would be warmly welcomed to this event.
Regards Anthony
Why oil pressure is worth improving (Wed Jan 7, 2004
12:49 am)
From: "madmax5639"
I have been riding my 1969 SII since I bought it new in England. A week
after I bought it I brought it here to Texas and it has been continuously
licensed and ridden since then. I have wore out two speedometers and
am currently working on a third.
I have lost track of my total mileage although one old speedo that
I still have reads 38,000 miles. I rode this bike to El Paso on the
4th of July when it was hot enough to fry an egg on the seat and never
had a problem with the engine or the oil pressure. So I have to conclude
that the SII oil system is adequate.
Having said all that, I still have a problem watching the oil pressure
go down to 5psi whenever I go over 60 mph. I am sure that I can feel
the difference in performance when the oil pressure first starts to
drop below 30psi (after about 5 to 10 minutes running).
I did the wind kettle modification in the timing cover and I noticed
an small improvement in the running along with a 5 to 10psi improvement
in oil pressure.
So, fellow riders, I believe that the SII engine will run just fine
with the existing oil pump. BUT, I think it can be made to run even
better with higher oil pressure. During the search for possible oil
pumps with Ole, I noticed that some of the bikes that are made in that
country starting with a "J" run their oil systems at 80psi
or higher.
As a mechanical engineer, I can say for certain that higher oil pressure
is better. But, is it enough better to justify the cost of a better
oil pump? That we will only know after we have done it!
Oh, by the way, I think it is obvious why Reg made the modification
of the poppet valve with a bypass hole in place of the simple ball in
the 60psi relief valve.
The ball valve was closing when the pressure dropped below 60psi and
so little or no oil was going to the rockers. My SII, s/n1711, bought
in the summer of 1969, had the poppet valve already fitted when I picked
it up.
Madmax
Balance factor (Sat Jan 10, 2004 5:50 pm)
From: "trident398277"
Anyone know what the balance factor for a Series II twin is?
Rick
BSW/BSF/BSC Fasteners (Tue Jan 20, 2004 5:22 am)
From: "cliffmarkell"
I am looking to buy Whitworth taps & dies befoer I do a bit of engine
work on my 1969 Interceptor Series II. Obviously, buying Whitworth,
Fine and Cycle, 3 full sets of taps & dies is big $. Can anyone
make a recommedation regarding which sizes/thread styles to buy first?
Cliff,
I am in the midst of tearing down my SII and went thru the same thoughts
about wierd threads. Its ok to call them wierd because they are uncommon
now even in the UK.
My recommendation is go ahead and do your work. It is too expensive
to buy all those tools for a one-off job. If you absolutely must have
a tap or die, buy it individually from somebody like www.walridge.com.
It would be convenient to have the full sets and, if not so expensive,
I would spring for them. (I might spend a few $ for a worn out set for
cleaning up old threads, but none have fallen my way.)
Many of the BSW threads are compatible with SAE threads, having the
same OD's and pitches, and a similar thread shape. If you have a bolt
(that needs a nut), there is no harm in substituting a modern fastener.
I don't know where you are, or what you have available, metric or SAE.
When my 1953 AJS lived in Italy it was rebuilt and there are metric
fasteners everywhere on it. A purist could easily buy the 'correct'
bolts and replace them. It is only with machine screws (i.e. thread
into a casting or machined part) that you will have difficulty. If it
is the fastener that has a problem, just buy a new one. If it is the
casting, well... I haven't had that problem yet.
A bin full of assorted nuts and bolts would be really handy, but I
have only a few and seem to be getting by. A thread gauge is invaluable
so you know if your 5/16 bolt is 26 tpi BSC, 24 tpi UNF, or 22 tpi BSF.
If you find it is 18 tpi it could be BSW or UNC. Again Walridge Motors
is one source. They have one with 52 leaves covering imperial and metric
for Cnd$18, part number 99-7100. I haven't checked if it has the old
Brit thread pitches like 26 tpi. I am not connected to Walridge - just
happen to have their catalogue on my desk.
For data on wrenches to use, or substitute, see
www.dansmc.com/wrench_reference.pdf.
For bolt head dimensions, I use my Machinery's Handbook 19th edition
(from 'the day') p.1143 and p.1162. For thread sizes and pitches, try
www.bmh.com.au, or www.tne.net.au/~milneds/techdata.htm, or www.classicfasteners.com.au.
Good luck with your project! ...And do you have any extra pieces to
sell or
trade?
Chris Overton 1B 1734
Rossland/Red Mountain BC Canada
The AJS & Matchless group is reporting good prices on tools at www.tracytools.com.
I noticed some deals in their clearance and bargains section. Try also
www.tapdie.co.uk. For wrenches, there can be good prices at www.baconsdozen.co.uk.
I have not dealt with any of them, and have no connection. Chris Overton
1B 1734
Chris
As always, You shouldn't go past the knowledge base. General mechanical
tips, Nuts and Bolts
or direct link
http://www.ozemate.com/interceptor/kbnuts.htm
Theres enough about threads to make your head spinn.
Royal
From: "bobbybhb"
If you are in need of a tap and die for any type of thread and don't
have it readily available, you can always use a Stainless Steel bolt
or nut of the "same thread" to do the job. In the case of
BSF or BSW
threads, you could have a SS nut and or bolt sent overnight from one
of our Canadian or US Brit Bike suppliers. I hope this helps. Bobby
B Calgary AB.
Angle drive for tacho, rusty cylinders (Tue Jan 20, 2004 5:39 pm)
From: "Chris Overton"
1. What is the gear reduction on the right angle drive for the tach
on an SII?
While dismantling my SII, I noticed the angle drive on the end of the
exhaust cam is incomplete. Tin plug fell out, followed by the pinion
gear and the adapter to go from square cable to spade connector. (Or
something jammed and pushed the plug out.)
I have another drive that I can fix up. Outwardly it is the same, but
I notice the angle on the worm gear is different. It gives a reduction
of 2:1. Is that the correct ratio?
2. My #1734 sat outside for 20 years, so when I pulled the cylinders
I found rust in them. One side is not bad. You can feel a bit of roughness
but I have no doubts about using it. The other side is different. It
has a band of red rust pitting up to 1/2" or 12mm wide for about
1/3 of the circumference of the cylinder. Other than corrosion damage,
the cylinders are in great shape. Original bore with no ridge at the
top, so I hate to hone or bore if I don't have to. What is the experience
out there with rust pitting on cylinder walls? I will forgive a little
oil burning, but do not want to cause further damage to the rings and
cylinders.
Chris Overton 1B 1734
In this regard, can you use a tach drive from a series 1 with the S2
tach on a S2 since the S2 tach goes clockwise and the S1 anticlockwise?
That is, are tach drives one directional? The old one off my long gone
S1 can be hand turned in either direction and looks to be in better
shape than the one on my S2. Wondered if I could use it?
Also: Check Ebay - Royal Enfield, for the S1 Interceptor flat
tracker....cooool or what!!!
From: "david hollyman" <!-- <d.hollyman --ntlworld.com>
-->
Rear speedo gearbox, Tracy Tools and the SII tacho gearbox
Hullo everyone,
A lot of recent subjects to comment on!
First, the rear speedo gearbox; because the SII had an 18" rear
wheel, it's different from the earlier models. But yes, it will happily
revolve in either direction.
Secondly, I can personally recommend Tracy Tools but just be aware
that if the taps are not high-speed steel then you need to cut slowly
and with plenty of cutting compound! Fine for cleaning old threads of
course.
Thirdly, as regards the SII tacho gearbox, the ratio is 2:1 and is
the same as fitted to the unit Triumph twins. I don't think you could
use the Series 1 'box easily though. The plug in the end of the SII
one fell out of mine; a British penny fitted perfectly and is still
in there! Perhaps a US cent would be close!! Cheers, Dave
Some comments, interspersed with David's below:
.. gREgg
> -----Original Message-----
> ..... First, the rear speedo
> gearbox; because the SII had an 18" rear wheel, it's different
from the earlier models.
While the 700 and very early 750 twins had 19" wheels, the later
Series 1, and the 1a had 18" rear wheels.
<<SNIP>>
> Thirdly, as regards the SII tacho gearbox, the ratio is 2:1 and
is the same as fitted to the unit Triumph twins. I don't think you could
use the Series 1 'box easily though.
If my memory serves correctly, the Series II had a bolt on tach drive
the same style as the earlier machines, but it went onto the crankcase
on other end of the exh cam, rather than onto the timing cover. Seems
to me that unit Triumphs had a drive that screwed into the crankcase
with a single large thread.
> The plug in the end of the SII one fell out of mine; a British
penny fitted
> perfectly and is still in there! Perhaps a US cent would be close!!
Yes, this was a very common problem, and I had this very thing happen
to my
Series II back in 1970 when it was only a few months old. The universal
repair was to dress down the diameter of a nickel (5 cent piece) and
insert
it into the recess with a bit of epoxy.
I think this problem occurred because the worm gear inside the drive
rotated in the opposite direction when fitted to a Series II, and hence
the thrust was against the plug ... which of course soon fell out.
.. gREgg
>
You're bang on. I have the American nickle on my 66 Matchless tach drive.
Bobby B
Any interceptors for sale in INDIA?
. ( Fri Jan 23,
2004 5:19 pm)
From: "satansantz"
Hi all,
I'm new here. I own a Bullet 350 Std edition and i live in Bangalore,
India. I would love to lay my hands on an Enfiled 750. Are there any
up for sale? If there are any of these for sale, what's usually the
price range
-Santhosh
santosh ; check www.ebay.com enter royal enfield in search box . good
luck
to you . ken smith usa
Dear Santhosh
A friend of mine - in B'lore by the way, perhaps you know him, Prashant
Kumar, have told me that Interceptors are impossible to find in India.
They are quite hard to find here in Europe as well. Most of the was
exported to US and Canada. An old Bullet 350 is not that bad, I have
ridden Prashants old (from the early 60's) 350 and it is much smoother
and nicer then for example the Bullet 500cc.
The price range for the Inter here in Europe is US$ 5000 - 7000. And
I presume it would be quite expensive to ship one from US or Europe.
Best regards
Anders
If you are seeking a more powerfull style of Enfield, and the Interceptor
is unreasonably priced, keep your eyes out for the new 1000 V-twin being
developed at the moment by a Melbourne company. There is talk of an
1100 being produced later as well as a 1300.
Westbro
MK1 oil problems? (Mon Jan 26, 2004 3:57 pm)
From: "b00stjunki3"
I've been reading over the MK2 oil problems and cant help but wonder,
do the MK1 engines have this problem?
The two bikes, though the engines are identical in many respects (same
heads, cylinders, crank, rods, pistons), have very different lubrication
systems.
The bikes prior to the Series II had a dry sump system, and the Series
II had a wet sump system.
.. gREgg
Fiberglass tank question?. (Fri Jan 30, 2004 10:42
am)
From: GTLITTLE
it's a bit late for a question posted late last year (?), but here are
some sources to coat fiberglass tanks: http://www.hirschauto.com/ http://www.caswellplating.com
Note that one should specify fiberglass as the application with Hirsch,
while the epoxy-based sealer from Caswell is multi-material.
Best,
George in Vermont
66 interceptor questions (Sat Jan 31, 2004 7:40 am)
From: "bobbybhb"
I have talked about my bike on here before ser# YB15981. Some people
say it is a 65. I've been looking at this bike for months now and just
realized that the fron forks have complete one piece metal light ears
that cover the fork tubes as opposed to the gaiters on the pictures
I have of 65 and 66 models. Everything else is the same. Anyone have
a picture and year of my bike? Now the question is, do I keep the metal
tubes or replace with the much nicer looking gaitors? Bobby B Calgary
AB
From: Orlan Riggs
Hi Bobby
I may be able to shed some light on this. A direct Quote from the manual
for 65 Interceptor,
"The lower ends of the main tubes and the upper ends of the bottom
tubes are protected either by a metal cover tube secured to the fork
crown or by corrugated flexible gaiters."
The parts manual for 63-64 gives different parts numbers using the
frame numbers as the point for the metal cover tube change, The shorter
tube after Frame # 11632. However it seems there was another change
in late 64 but the part #'s stayed the same.
Also to confuse the issue further they came both ways to the dealer.
I remember unpacking two of these before Christmas in 65 at the RE and
Velocette dealer in Pomona CA and we thought they had shipped the wrong
bike. a quick call to the distributor put us straight. Take what you
get and be happy.
If this helps and you want to convert yours to gaiters contact me off
list and I will send you drawings and pictures as they are not allowed
here. also I can help with the sometimes hard start problem the magneto
equipped bikes all had.
Having owned both early and late models I find the 65-66 bikes the
best. Rode mine 78 miles today in sunny CA
60 Years of Motorcycles
Orlan
Thanks Orlan, Your help is greatly appreciated. Bobby B